The Tel Hadid Forest Park -Trails, Maccabee lookouts - and goats!

Most of the parks and open spaces in Israel feature playgrounds, caves and toilet blocks, sometimes not necessarily of the most savoury. If you are looking for something a little more basic, yet close to Tel Aviv and the coastal region, Tel Hadid could be just up your street. Located at the edge of the Ben Shemen Forest, close to Lod airport, this is an area of land developed by the JNF for active recreation. A paved track leads you up through some woods - and goats - to running trails, cycling trails, quad bike trails and even off road vehicle trails. At the summit there are picnic tables and a look out point. And WHAT a lookout point!

 You can easily see why Simon Maccabee, brother of Judah, built up an observation point and that there was already a Jewish community at the time of the destruction of the First Temple. What is also not surprising is that there is evidence of Bronze Age settlement and Assyrian immigration, witnessed by the discovery of documents and seals, written in cuneiform. Stand at the observation point and, although it is only some 150 metres above sea level, you can see (weather permitting) as far as Tel Aviv, Herzliyah and Petach Tikvah on the pancake flat Shephela. Yet all you have to do is turn your back on the view of Tel Aviv, Ben Gurion airport and Route 6 as it winds around the base of the tel before disappearing into a tunnel beneath the tel and you could be back in biblical times, with some farms and small settlements - and those goats! You can easily reach Tel Hadid directly off Route 444, just north of the mega junction with Routes 1. It's no more than twenty minutes from the beach at Tel Aviv!

Ir David, the City of David Jerusalem Walls National Park - Where it all began

Where it all began - Ir David, the City of David Jerusalem Walls National Park

For those of us with some knowledge of Jerusalem, both mishnaic and modern, it's easy to forget where it all started. However, a trip to Ir David, the City of David Jerusalem Walls National Park will certainly help to put it all into context.

Why did David want to conquer this rocky outcrop? Why was it here at all?

Was it the religious link with Har Hamoriah, about which he must surely have known? Was it the strategic value, in the neutral territory between rival tribes? Was it the fact that there was a ready and constant source of sweet water? Perhaps it was all three.

We know that David built his royal palace here and that Solomon enlarged the city to include the Temple Mount, but after his death and the civil war which followed, the city remained the capital only of the Kingdom of Judah. We all know what happened with Assyrian and Babylonian attacks and conquests, exile and return, Maccabeans and Romans, but for the next nearly two millennia, the area was forgotten, until the mid nineteenth century, when the pious Sephardi Meyuhas family moved there from inside the Old City, where the family had lived for many generations. They were followed shortly after by a large group of Yemenite Jews, who had moved there en masse. The archaeological efforts of British army engineers and explorers Warren, Robinson and others, funded by the, still extant, Palestine Exploration Fund, started to reveal the extent of the amazing history of the area. Perhaps even more fascinating than the dramatic discovery of Hezekiah's Tunnel has been the recent finding of a Canaanite passageway leading safely to a sweet water pool, which predates it by 1,000 years and was perhaps the 'gutter' referred to in 2 Samuel 5,6-8!

Your trip to the site, whether with one of the excellent guided tours or on your own, should start with the 3D video presentation, which will put the site into context, historically and geographically. However, the next part of the tour will take you down many, many steps, as you descend past the Davidic Royal Quarters and into Warren's Shaft. Whether you decide on the dry walk through the narrow and twisting Canaanite passageway or the longer and wetter walk through Hezekiah's Tunnel, you should allow two to three hours. If you decide not to take the shuttle bus back to the top, past the Arab village of Silwan, but choose to walk back up, past the 'tombs of the House of David', you can add many more minutes to your trip!

To access Ir David, leave the Old City via the Dung Gate, turn left and cross the road. In about 100m, turn right and the entrance will be on your left. You can't miss the harp sculpture at the entrance.

the Hula Nature Reserve -The birdies Watford Gap

Imagine the Watford Gap services for millions of migrating birds, heading from Northern and Eastern Europe to the breeding grounds of Africa and then returning six months later.  Tired and hungry, they look for the very best place to rest and feed, before flying on. This is the Hula Nature Reserve. Once an expanse of fifteen thousand acres, in the 1950s, the new Israeli government decided to drain the marshes of the Hula lake to create farming land. It was d disaster Due to the ecological ramifications of draining the swamp, so, in 1994, the authorities decided to restore part of the marsh by reflooding a portion of the reserve. Perhaps only in Israel would this decision be taken.

Of course, in the intervening years, many of the birds who had once made their homes in the Hula moved on, but after the reserve was restored, a number of species returned, some nesting there permanently. During migrating season, bird-watchers have counted nearly 400 species of birds that come to the reserve to rest, and some species, like the white-tailed eagle, are being reintroduced to the area by the staff of the reserve.

You will enter the reserve through a Visitors Centre, called the "Oforia" (bird house). Put on the 3D glasses they give you, sit back on the moving seats and experience the multi-sensory simulation programme, complete with smells, clouds, wind turbulence and amazing video footage. Then you wander through the displays to learn about the Hula Nature Reserve and its history - the plants and animals that once existed in the reserve, and those which have been reintroduced to the area.

When you leave the Visitors Centre, you walk to the reserve. Bikes and small jeeps are available for rental and all the paths are wheelchair and buggy friendly. The stroll into the reserve takes about 15 minutes, plus stops, during which time the birds circle overhead. Walking quietly, one can see various animals such as coypu and water buffalo, reptiles (mostly turtles) and fish. There are many spots to sit and relax while watching the birds flying overhead, but at the end of the trail, a covered walkway takes you out over a lake near the birds' nesting area so that you can observe the birds without scaring them. A lookout tower achieves a similar effect.

The greatest number of species can be viewed during the winter, from October to May, which includes both the autumn and spring migrations. The best time of day to come is the late afternoon, immediately before sunset, when the birds, return for the night. Look upward and see thousands of birds of every imaginable size and species gathering in the Reserve. It's a sight that is not easily forgotten.

You reach the Hula reserve by turning of Route 90, north of Rosh Pinah and north of route 9119.

Dali at Ralli are really worth seeing - The Ralli Museum of Art, Caesarea

 

Harry Recanati was a major force in Israeli business and banking, with a family with whom he clearly wished to have no connection.  However, his love of art – and particularly modern South American art -inspired two amazing linked museums in Caesarea.

One building, inspired by his families Sefardi routes, via Salonika and with Italian connections, is in the style of a traditional Spanish building with a beautiful courtyard, complete with cooling fountains. Its enormous interior, over three floors, has paintings from Europe with biblical themes, each one giving its Tanach based quotation. They are not by any means by important artists, but they are importantly displayed, in matching modern frames and having been heavily restored. The galleries also display some life size bronze statues by European artist who were murdered in the Holocaust.

Adjacent to this building is another, with an interesting display of the archaeology and history of the area, together with some finds (and copies of more important ones, too) but the other five galleries display an amazing collection of South American art and artists.  Whilst there is no obvious Jewish theme to any of the pictures, the real eye opener is an enormous collection of Salvador Dali bronzes, many on familiar themes (droopy watches, for example) as well as his very interesting design for a menorah!

What you will not find in either gallery are guide books, gift shops or cafes.  This was an express request of Mr Recanati: clearly a man with VERY strong views! The museums, like the car parks and toilets, are free and spotless.

The Ralli museum is well signposted off Rothschild Boulevard which is easily accessed from Route 5211 (although the map says route 6511!), just off Route 2 at the Or Akiva junction.

Gan Hashlosha. Warm waters+ good picnicking+ interesting site = great day out.

 Situated at the foot of the Mount Gilboa range of hills lies a gem of a park, Gan Hashlosha, ranked by Time magazine as one of the twenty best parks in the world.  Whether you decide that their ranking system is good or not, it certainly takes a lot of beating. The same geothermal activity which sends very hot water to Hammat Gader’s pools, drive gently warm spring waters to emerge as the Amal Spring in the western part of the park at a constant, year-round temperature of 28 degrees Celsius. This means that swimming is pleasant here out of the summer season, too. The Amal Stream crosses the entire park, and has been widened into pools, with safe bathing for adults and children, too. Numerous picnic tables a cafe and changing facilities show that the Parks Authority has tried to think of almost everything, although overnight camping is not permitted.

An old water-powered mill now operates again and also features a display of agricultural tools. The adjacent madafeh, or Arab hospitality room, has also been restored.

In another part of the park is a restoration of Tel Amal, established on the night of December 10, 1936 as one of the Tower and Stockade settlements set up by Jewish pioneers in the face of British Mandate opposition. The rooms in which the pioneers lived feature an exhibit of daily objects they used. In another room, children can enjoy putting together a model of a settlement. A 10-minute film (in Hebrew) in the restored dining hall depicts life during the time of the Arab revolt (1936–1939).  Opposite Tel Amal, over a small bridge, is the regional Mediterranean archaeological museum, showing the life’s work of a local expert. It contains a display of rare Greek tools, finds from excavations in the Bet Shean Valley, some of which come from as far away as Egypt and Persia, and a unique exhibit about the Etruscans. It also has a display showing what local life must have been like in biblical times.

All in all, an excellent day out for the whole family, but be aware, lots of Israelis think so too in the height of the summer vacation time and during chol hamoed, too.

You can find Gan Hashlosha on Route 669, just off route 71, a little east of Bet Shean.

The National Maritime Museum, Haifa. Of Ancient ships and pirates.

 

Haifa has been a port of importance for many years and Israel’s maritime heritage stretches back millennia, so what better place to learn about it than in the National Maritime Museum, on Allenby Street in Haifa? 

 The building stretches over three floors and shows both the ancient story of ships, artifacts and sailing in the eastern Mediterranean and, interestingly, the growth of the modern Israeli shipping industry.  This starts in the Mandate period and has expanded to the current fleet of freight and cruise ships.

The lowest floor has an exhibit on piracy, which has little to do with Israel, but would be interesting for children.

Right next door, but not connected to the museum, is the Clandestine Immigration Musuem, which has even more real boats and should be all of a piece with the Maritime museum.  Quite why it isn’t, remains a mystery to me!

The Mount Gilboa Scenic Route. Of Tanach, tragedy and triumph.

 In Tanach, Mt. Gilboa (which is more of a ridge rather than a single mountain) is a place of tragedy and triumph. Israelis flock here every year from February to April to see the multitude of wildflowers and the famed purplish Gilboa Iris (Iris Haynei), but it’s good to drive – and stop – at any time.

The Book of Samuel tells us that it was here that Saul, the first King of Israel and his sons died fighting the Philistines, “And it came to pass on the morrow, when the Philistines came to strip the slain, that they found Saul and his three sons fallen in Mount Gilboa”, (1 Samuel: 31). Take your Tanach, drive the route and you can easily imagine what, tragically happened.

However, most of what is today the scenic drive is what used to be known as the Patrol Road in Mandate Palestine. While the road is now completely paved, you may actually want to veer off and take some of the unpaved paths (check that your car hire allows it first) and walk a bit – to get the best views of the valley. If you would like to have a picnic, there are many delightful picnic areas along the scenic route. Many have walking trails leading from them, too.

From Gilboa you’ll be able to see the valley below. This part of the Jezreel valley is known as the Harod Valley and it is full of fishponds that attract a great number and variety of birds including cormorants, pelicans and storks. You’ll also be able to see the hill of Moreh where the Philistines assembled to fight Saul and his army, Mt. Tabor and the mountains of the Jordan Valley. On a clear day you might even see Mt. Hermon to the north.

David, who of course replaced Saul, lamented his fallen king in II Samuel 1 thus: ‘You mountains of Gilboa, let there be no dew, neither let there be rain, upon you, nor fields of offerings.’ Over the years some took this curse literally, as the reason for the seeming ‘baldness’ of Mt. Gilboa. However, in recent years the Jewish National Fund planted thousands of trees which have greatly changed the situation, although ‘bald spots’ are still visible in places.

Guide books will tell you that late winter and early spring are the best time to savour the full splendour of Gilboa and the valley below, but we have been there at other times of the year and each has its reasons to visit.

The scenic route is Route 667 and runs from Route 90 south of Bet Shean to the junction with route 675, near Route 71, south east of Afula. If you want to break your drive, Route 6666, about half way along, will take you back down to the Jezreel Valley in a series of spectacular hairpin bends.